Introduction
October of 2023, driving from Champaign, where I live, to Bloomington, my family and I watched in awe, the sky streaked with deep pinks as the sun rose.
Originally dubbed “the sunrise skirts,” I designed two fabrics for Holiday 2024—inspired by this sunrise. Unexpectedly pastel—I imagined us gliding into holiday parties like a breath of fresh air amidst a sea of jewel tones.
Both are striped and pastel, yet each carries a distinct mood. I always design with my customers in mind—pieces that can live together in a wardrobe without feeling like repeats. These skirts share a spirit but offer two different expressions for the same woman on different days, heading to different places, in different moods.
The Design Process
I began designing long, dramatic, voluminous silhouettes with thoughtful details. Chevron stripes aligned at the front, back, and side seams. Matching belts. Asymmetrical hemlines. Tiers.
The fabric itself felt like a lightweight canvas—structured and casual. I loved the contrast of a ballgown-like shape in such an unfussy textile. I pictured my customer styling it with her favorite worn-in sneakers, the grittiness of the shoes adding to the drama of the skirt. That’s when I started calling them “The Tuesday Ballgowns.”
For the first time, I ordered two handwoven fabrics simultaneously. A significant investment, this decision reflected my hope for growth—that my business would reach a point where it could support such an ambitious production. I dreamed of new clients and imagined these skirts accompanying them on vacations, grocery runs, and everywhere in between.
Fabric Creation & Production
These fabrics were meticulously handwoven at Mohammad Ali’s fair-trade factory in rural Bangladesh. The process took months and involved a dozen artisans. The yarn, made from recycled garment factory offcuts, carries a special significance—no new dye was used. The colors you see are the actual colors of the scrap fabrics that were recycled to create the yarn.
Special thanks to Sarah Grace for photos of the fabric on the loom in Bangladesh.
The texture of these fabrics is my favorite part—stiff yet wearable, like lightweight denim. These skirts feel rugged, like something you could hike in. Or ride a horse. Or, at the very least, tend a campfire somewhere in the Wild West. (Yes, these are the scenarios I dream up for you.)
Manufacturing & Challenges
For the first time, I worked with a pattern maker to digitize my designs rather than hand-drawing every piece. This was a game-changer, but it also introduced unexpected challenges.
Despite countless attempts, we couldn’t find a printer that could accurately print the digital patterns. Each print attempt resulted in skewed pieces, which meant the skirts wouldn’t be sewn correctly. The delays mounted.
It was during my birthday week in July 2024 that the skirts were officially delayed and would miss their Fall debut. After nine months of work and endless hurdles, this felt like the breaking point. Other projects were also hitting snags, and I felt defeated—lonely and foolish for having been so ambitious.
But eventually, I began to see the benefit of my timeless and seasonless designs: they could easily handle the slight delay.
Production at the family-run workshop in India progressed smoothly. I resumed my familiar routine of early morning and late-night messaging as the team meticulously matched seams and stitched each piece with care. This very large batch of skirts was coming together beautifully. I am continually inspired by the mostly women-led team that, regardless of extreme challenges, stitches and raises their kids together, all while constantly leveling up their craftsmanship.
The finished skirts arrived, the highest quality yet—near perfect and absolutely beyond expectation. It's hard to believe that it's been 16 months. The skirts look as fresh as if I thought them up yesterday. And I am left encouraged: good design takes its time and teaches me to take mine. When you wear these skirts, I think you'll feel every bit of what I'm saying. The things you've been waiting on, I think you'll find a little more in the tank (er, pockets), to finish the race.
The Final Skirts
The Grey
I originally thought of this yarn as blue, but in the finished skirt, it reads as a warm grey—stunningly versatile. It pairs beautifully with blue but also leans khaki or green depending on the outfit. The coral pinstripe shifts hues, appearing red with red tops, orange with orange tops, and rust with rust tops. The waistband is a statement on its own, with a matching belt that ties into the sweetest bow and a delicate paperbag ruffle. The hemline? Dramatic—long in the back, short in the front. A showstopper from every angle.
During fit testing, I saw it shine on plus-size, petite, pregnant, tall, young, and mature wearers. It truly works for all.
The Pink
Second in mention but second to no one. This full-length maxi skirt is all about drama. The asymmetrical tier creates movement, and with six seams requiring meticulously matched stripes, the results are a breathtaking 360-degree experience—every angle tells a different story.
I’ve been styling and living with these skirts, and I can’t wait to share all the ways they can be worn.
What’s Next & How to Get Them
After 16 months—hurdles, risks, and all—the Tuesday Ballgowns are finally here. They are available now in the shop.
I’ve cycled through every emotion over these past 16 months. Today, I feel a quiet acknowledgment of what these skirts represent. They are the biggest investment of time and money I’ve ever made. They emptied me out, wrung me dry. But do you know why they made it? Because of the caliber of the design. That’s a big thing for me to say—especially as a designer who often wrestles with confidence.
As my dad says: "A good idea stays a good idea."
I’ve been refining these skirts since 2018. My clients and I have tested them through hikes, bike rides, hospital stays, ketchup stains, vacation suitcases, pregnancy, postpartum, and menopause—always asking them to do more. To be easy to care for, to fit every time we pull them on, to comfort and empower, to complement what’s already in our closets, to sing with treasures from the consignment store, to work for multiple seasons and multiple years. To be seasonless and timeless.
I developed the pattern over years of fitting clients in my studio and retail space. I solo-sewed hundreds of skirts before moving into manufacturing. I know these skirts inside and out, every seam and every fit adjustment. And my manufacturing partners in India? They get it. They stitch them as carefully as I would in my own studio.
There’s an integrity built into these skirts—both in their design and their construction. That’s why, despite every hurdle, they arrive just on time.
Check out coming posts for deep dives into each skirt, complete with styling ideas and videos!
XO
Emily